While Indonesia’s
volcanoes are often noted for the beauty of their spectacular peaks,
steaming craters and view of the earth’s bubbling core, Mount Merapi,
the country’s most active, took centre stage in October this year as a
clear reminder of their deadly activity. Many of Indonesia’s volcanoes
do erupt, sometimes with shocking consequences.
Due to Indonesia’s placement on a significant segment of the Pacific
‘Ring of Fire’, two large crustal plates (the Indian Ocean and western
Pacific) are forced under the massive Eurasian plate, where they melt at
approximately 100km beneath the surface. Some of the magma rises and
erupts to form the string of volcanic islands across Indonesia.
But with tectonic activity comes devastating earthquakes and tsunamis, such as those of Boxing Day 2004, off Java in July 2006 and Sumatra in 2009, and just recently around the surfer’s paradise of the Mentawai Islands. Here is the lowdown on Indonesia’s most beautiful, and its most volatile, volcanic monsters.
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Bromo Mountain, Java
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Bromo Mountain, Java
A lunaresque landscape of epic proportions and surreal beauty, Gunung Bromo is one of Indonesia’s most breathtaking sights. Surrounded by the desolate Sea of Sands, its peak is sacred and eerie. It may not be Java’s tallest volcano, but it’s easily its most magnificent. From the summit you can see two other volcanoes (one in various stages of activity), all set in the vast caldera of yet another volcano.
Compared with Java’s other major peaks, Gunung Bromo is a midget, but
this volcano’s beauty is in its setting, not its size. Rising from the
guts of the ancient Tengger caldera, Bromo is one of three volcanoes to
have emerged from a vast crater, stretching 10km across. Flanked by the
peaks of Kursi and Batok, the steaming cone of Bromo stands in a sea of
ashen, volcanic sand, surrounded by the towering cliffs of the crater’s
edge. Nearby, Gunung Semeru, Java’s highest peak and one of its most
active volcanoes, throws its shadow – and occasionally its ash – over
the whole scene.
Krakatau Mountain, Java
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Krakatau Mountain, Java |
Take a boat trip to see the remnants, and the new beginnings, of one
of the world’s A-list volcanoes. Few volcanoes have as explosive a place
in history as Krakatau, the island that blew itself apart in 1883.
Turning day into night and hurling devastating tsunamis against the
shores of Java and Sumatra, Krakatau quickly became vulcanology’s A-list
celebrity. Few would have guessed that Krakatau would have snuffed
itself out with such a devastating swan song. Krakatau may have blown
itself to smithereens, but it is currently being replaced by Anak
Krakatau, which has been on the ascendant ever since its first
appearance nearly 80 years ago. It has a restless and uncertain
temperament, sending out showers of glowing rocks and belching smoke and
ashes.
Ijen Crater, Java
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Tourist in Ijen Crater |
Spend the night at a peaceful coffee plantation before climbing this
volcano to view its remarkable turquoise sulphur lake. The fabled Ijen
Plateau is a vast volcanic region dominated by the three cones of Ijen,
Merapi and Raung. A beautiful and thickly forested alpine area, these
thinly populated highlands harbour coffee plantations and a few isolated
settlements – Gunung Ijen is Javanese for ‘Lonely Mountain’. Access
roads to the plateau are poor, and perhaps because of this visitor
numbers are low. Virtually everyone that does come is here for the hike
up to the spectacular crater lake of Kawah Ijen. But with sweeping
vistas and a temperate climate, the plateau could make a great base for a
few days up in the clouds away from the crowds.
Agung Mountain, Java
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Agung Mountain, Java |
Take one of the numerous routes up and down Bali’s tallest and most
sacred mountain; Gunung Agung is an imposing peak seen from most of
South and East Bali, although it’s often obscured by cloud and mist.
Many references give its height as 3142m, but some say it lost its top
in the 1963 eruption and opinion varies as to the real height. The
summit is an oval crater, about 700m across, with its highest point on
the western edge above Besakih.
Kerinci Mountain, Sumatra
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Kerinci mountain, Sumatera |
Brave this challenging ascent up into the heavens on Sumatra’s
highest peak. Dominating the northern end of the park is the 3805m
Gunung Kerinci, one of Sumatra’s most active volcanoes (it last erupted
in 2009) and Indonesia’s highest non-Papuan peak. On clear days the
summit offers fantastic views of Danau Gunung Tujuh and the surrounding
valleys and mountains.
Kelimutu, Nusa Tenggara
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Kelimutu, Nusa Tenggara |
Wonder at the ethereal scenery atop this volcano, with its three
differently coloured crater lakes and lunar landscape. There aren’t many
better ways to wake up than to sip ginger coffee as the sun crests
Kelimutu’s western rim, filtering mist into the sky and revealing three
deep, volcanic lakes – each one a different striking shade. That’s why
the tri-coloured lakes of Kelimutu National Park have
long been considered a Nusa Tenggara must. During our research one was
turquoise, the other dark brown with flecks of rust, and the third was
black glass. Colours are so dense that the lakes seem the thickness of
paint.
Rinjani Mountain, Lombok
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Rinjani Mountain, Lombok |
Join pilgrims at the summit of this sacred peak, which has a huge
crater lake overlooked by the active cone of Gunung Baru. To the
Balinese, who come once a year, Rinjani is one of three sacred
mountains, along with Bali’s Agung and Java’s Bromo. Inside the immense
caldera, 600m below the rim, is a stunning, 6km-wide cobalt-blue lake,
Danau Segara Anak (Child of the Sea). The Balinese toss their jewellery
into the lake in a ceremony called pekelan, before they continue toward the sacred summit.
Api Mountain, Maluku
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Api Mountain, Maluku |
Scramble up this volcano in the Banda Islands to experience the
awesome sunrise views. This devilish little 666m volcano has always been
a threat to Bandaneira, Lonthoir and anyone attempting to farm its
fertile slopes. It’s most recent eruption in 1988 killed three people,
destroyed over 300 houses and filled the sky with ash for days.
Historically, Gunung Api’s eruptions have often proved to be spookily
accurate omens of approaching intruders.
Semeru Mountain, Java
Part of the huge Tengger Massif, the classic cone of Gunung Semeru is
the highest peak in Java, at 3676m. Also known as Mahameru (Great
Mountain), it is looked on by Hindus as the most sacred mountain of all
and the father of Gunung Agung on Bali. Semeru is one of Java’s most
active peaks and has been in a near-constant state of eruption since
1818. In 1981, 250 people were killed during one of its worst eruptions,
and it exploded as recently as March 2009.
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